Let’s make proper pizza (worth every minute):

Sift the flours, sugar and salt into a large bowl and mix well. In a small jug, mix the yeast with a splash of the tepid water to form a loose paste.

Make a well in the centre of the dry ingredients and add the yeast mixture. Gradually pour in the remaining water, drawing in the flour a little at a time, until everything comes together into a soft, slightly sticky dough.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 5–10 minutes, until smooth, elastic and springy. Pop it into a clean bowl, cover with a damp tea towel and leave in a warm place to prove for about 1½ hours, or until almost doubled in size.

Once risen, knock the dough back by gently punching it down and kneading briefly, then divide into four equal balls.

Place the balls on a lightly greased baking tray, spacing them well apart. Cover loosely with lightly greased cling film and leave to prove again — at least 4 hours in a warm room, or overnight in the fridge for even better flavour.

When the dough has doubled again, heat the oven to its highest setting. Put a heavy baking tray or pizza stone inside so it gets seriously hot.

Roll out one dough ball on a floured surface to about 0.5cm thick. Lightly flour an upturned baking tray and transfer the base onto it.

Blitz the tomatoes into a smooth purée. Spoon a little into the centre of the base and spread it almost to the edges.

Scatter over the sheep’s cheese, dollops of ’nduja and a few basil leaves. Drizzle with peanut oil if you’re using it.

Working quickly, slide the pizza from the tray onto the hot stone or baking tray in the oven. Bake for 5–8 minutes, until the base is cooked, the cheese has melted and the tomatoes are bubbling.

Repeat with the remaining dough and toppings, serving each pizza straight away — hot, blistered and glorious.